As we learned last month, the first and best option for dealing with pests in the garden is to provide your plants with a healthy environment so that pests don't become a problem in the first place. We also learned the worst thing we can do in the beginning is reach for the bottle of organic pesticide. So what do we do when, even after careful preparation, pests decide to invade the garden? Firsts thing's first, fear not. I assure you that every gardener, throughout all time, has at one time or another had to battle with some bothersome bugs. You can take some comfort in knowing that of the billions of insects around the world, only a few dozen actually cause significant damage to garden crops. Fortunately for us, the myriad of ways to combat these pests have been well documented and tested.
The way pests feed will determine how we can both identify and control them. There are four primary ways pests feed on plants in the garden: Above ground chewing, above ground sucking, below ground feeding, and boring. The earlier you can spot pests or pest damage, it will increase the likelihood that you will successfully be able to combat the invader. This involves due diligence on the part of the gardener. Spending at least 30 minutes every night checking under leaves and looking for pest damage should be a part of your routine. You may need to purchase a jeweler's lens or strong magnifying glass to identify the small guys. Signs to looks for include wilted or stressed plants, holes chewed in leaves, curled leaves that look sickly or have dried out, and clusters of insects or insect frass (poop). Once you are sure you have an insect pest, the first step you must take is to identify the culprit. Many plants are affected by multiple pests whose damage looks similar, so always be sure you know what you are dealing with before you proceed.
The easiest and most affordable Physical Control is to hand pick the pest. Caterpillars, grasshoppers, beetles, aphids, snails, grubs and many other pests can simply be picked off and either squashed, dropped into a bucket of soapy water, or fed to the chickens. I sometimes have trouble with the squashing of an unassuming little caterpillar, but by feeding them to my chickens I somehow feel left out of the karmic loop. A strong stream of water can also be used in lieu of handpicking if you are a bit squeamish about touching bugs, just be careful not to damage the plants in the process. This method of pest control is considered to be the safest and least damaging to the garden ecosystem.
If nightly strolls around the garden are impractical, or squishing aphids between your fingertips before dinner isn't your thing, then don't be afraid to reach for a row cover. A floating row cover is a protective barrier that you can place over your plants to keep insects from having access. These row covers are made of a light weight material that lets in water and over 95% of sunlight. Moths and butterflies must go elsewhere to lay their destructive eggs however. Although they can not keep out 100% of pests out 100% of the time, they can significantly reduce the chance of a pest infestation.Traps can also be useful when combating garden pests. Pheromone traps attract insects and interrupt their breeding cycle. They do this by sending out chemical signals that insects find irresistible. These traps work by only attracting either a male or a female of a particular species. When the insects become trapped they can not reproduce and therefore their life cycle is stopped. Sticky traps are another useful tool in the garden but use them only as a last resort because they can harm beneficial insects as well. Sticky traps are brightly colored yellow or blue cards that attract different insects. When insects land on the trap they stick and can not escape. A home made sticky trap can be constructed with some yellow paper board and a product called tangle foot. Tangle foot works well as a barrier against ants as well. Simply place the tangle foot around the base of your plants to keep ants from crawling up and eating the leaves or fruit.
If squash borers are your problem, you may want to try a little "grubectomy." Locate the entrance point of the borer by searching for the orange colored frass that is the by-product of its feeding. Usually you can find this area located under a wilted leaf. Once you have located the entrance, using a razor blade or pocket knife cut a slit into the vine near the entrance and gently pry open the vine. You should see a little white borer with a dark black head. Simply cut him up with your knife or dig him out using some wire or a stick. Once he is out gently close the vine and cover with soil, the plant should repair itself. As with other pests, it is best to stay on top of things before it gets too out of control.
Physical control of pests should always be your first option if you find yourself being invaded. Be creative when combating your garden pests and always try to be positive. A garden covered with row covers doesn't look to appealing, but it sure beats the heck out of losing your crop. I sure hope you found this helpful, leave a comment if you have any questions. Stay tuned for next time when we discuss one of my favorite topics Biological Control.
Happy Gardening!
